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1. Take your time.
Knowing
whether a bit is going to work or not takes time. Sometimes a horse
will let you know that it is the right bit or the wrong bit in as
little as 20 minutes, but often it takes several rides in a
particular bit to know for sure. Plan on between three and ten rides
to let you decide if a bit is going to be the right choice for you
and your horse.
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2. Properly Introduce the Bit.
It is important to be able to “read” your horse with a new bit.
The Mylers do not recommend using any tack or equipment which will
infringe your horse's ability to communicate with you. Therefore, it
is not advisable to use flash nose bands, figure-8 nose bands,
martingales, draw reins, tie-downs, etc. If you do use a nose band,
it should be a regular caveson and worn loose enough that the jaw is
free. (Space for two fingers or more usually works . . .)
When trying a new bit, give your horse plenty of time to get used to
the taste and the feel of the new bit. Bridle your horse with the
new bit and simply let him stand unmounted with the bit. Let him
investigate it with his tongue. He may chew a little bit more than
normal while he discovers the new feel. After 10 to 15 minutes he
should be more relaxed.
The next step is to simulate the bit's action to your horse prior to
mounting. This way he can anticipate what the bit will do without
having to concentrate on your other cues if mounted. This is also a
way for you to anticipate his behavior with the bit. Standing near
his left shoulder, place the reins over his neck. Grab both reins
just in front of the withers to simulate where the reins would be
when mounted. Next, steady the rein in one hand and gently apply
rein pressure with the other, activating the bit and asking your
horse to relax at the poll. When the horse gives to the pressure,
release with your hand. He may take a step or two backwards or
forwards as he gets used to the action. Ideally, your horse should
gently lower his head onto the vertical, releasing his own pressure
and learning to stay in his “comfort zone.” After some time, he
should not be stepping forward or backward in this exercise. This
exercise is a great way to introduce bits as well as supple a horse
prior to work. The Mylers highly recommend working with your horse
on the ground as part of the transition to a new bit.
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3.Anticipate some resistance.
If your horse has been resistant in his current bit, there is a strong
likelihood he will be resistant in his new bit. Simply put - he is going
to try what he knows. Here are some suggestions on how to deal with
particular forms of resistance.
Chomping and chewing:
This may take some patience on your part and
some trust on your horse’s part. Horses generally chomp and chew as a
resistance to too much tongue pressure. With your new bit, you should not
have as much tongue pressure, but it may take your horse some time to
realize this. He will need to “trust” his new bit from restricting his
tongue as his previous bit did. So, give your horse time to learn to
relax, this may take days. Next, release your horse when he is in
position. If you are constantly applying pressure on his mouth, he may not
have opportunity to relax.
Inverting:
Inversion is fairly common. The main thing your horse is
doing is controlling the application of the bit’s action by staying up
out of the “pressure zone.” Your new bit should give the pressure you
need to ask him to relax at the poll to his “comfort zone” and give
him the pressure relief he's looking for. Many horses will try to invert
with the new bit; you will need to ask the horse to go forward and apply
consistent pressure until they relax at the poll. Once the horse relaxes
at the poll, release rein pressure. Always ask the horse to go forward.
Some horses may resist by stopping, flipping their head, grabbing the bit,
etc., but always ask the horse to go forward. If the horse needs some
encouragement to relax at the poll, here's an option to try.
First, simulate the bit’s action while on the ground as discussed in #2.
Next, while mounted, warm your horse up on a loose rein. After 10 minutes
or so, ask your horse to relax at the poll with some rein pressure. Try
circling and using inside rein pressure, pulled toward your outside hip,
and subtly “bump” the inside rein. Once the horse relaxes at the poll,
release rein pressure. If still resistant and not improving, try the
following: set the horse’s head where you would like it. Gather up your
reins, keep contact on the horse’s mouth and double the reins over from
one hand to the other, like a jockey. Let out 1 1/2’ to 2’ of rein so
that the horse has a “comfort zone” to go to, fix your hand position,
keep a steady feel of the reins and “lock” your elbows. As you ask
your horse to go forward, let the horse pull into your hands and then
release himself by relaxing at the poll. It may feel like your horse is
getting a bit worse before getting better, but as long as he learns to
release himself, you are headed in the right direction. Keep these
sessions brief and always reward when the horse is responding the way you
want. Leverage and curb pressure can be very helpful for horses that
invert by effectively rolling the mouthpiece downward. Be sure your curb
strap or chain is adjusted properly with room for only two fingers. Too
loose and the cheek rotates too far around before engaging the curb chain.
The curb chain hits too late and too hard, possibly upsetting your horse
and not giving you the control you are looking for. Too tight and the
horse is not rewarded with a comfort zone and is uncomfortable and
distracted. When adjusted correctly, the curb chain engages with slight
rotation of the cheek, adding more downward pressure to the mouthpiece,
offering more control and encouragement for the horse to relax at the poll
and stay balanced. Because an inverted horse is not used to working while
relaxed at the poll, he will tire quickly and easily. Keep sessions short
and always finish on a good note where the horse releases himself.
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4.Additional things to note:
Here are a couple more helpful hints for transitioning to a new bit.
Hooks: Offering leverage, Hooks make ring bits more versatile. Be
sure to have the headstall and reins adjusted properly when using bits
with hooks. With English Dees & Eggbutts—the top hook is next
to the small curb chain hole. With Full Cheeks—there is no top
hook, but only a bottom hook. The top of the bit is fastened with a bit
keeper. Western Dees—the hooks are flexible and can be used in
either top or bottom position.The headstall and reins should go around the
outside of the ring, through the slot (or hook) and then fastened. The bit
should appear as a traditional bit from the side. Should you not want the
leverage action, simply place the rein on the outside of the ring above
the slot area and it will work like a traditional bit.
Quick Links: These are very handy hooks to use with curb chains.
Can be placed and removed easily by simply linking the chain and fastening
around the purchase or in the curb chain hole.
Mouthpiece sizing: Myler Bits can run a bit bigger than other
traditional bits, especially the jointed mouthpieces. All Myler
mouthpieces are measured cheek to cheek with a curve in the mouthpiece,
just as it would lay in the horse's mouth when being used. Traditional
bits are measured laying flat, but if they are a broken/jointed
mouthpiece, they do not lay in the mouth like that. You always want
1/8" to 1/4" of bit outside the lips on each side.
To measure your horse for a Myler Bit, you will want to measure the width
of his mouth using a bitting stick or dowel. This way you are measuring
from cheek to cheek, just as Myler mouthpieces are measured. So if your
horse's mouth is 4 5/8" across, then he takes a 5" Myler.
If he is 5 1/4" across than he takes a 5 1/2" Myler. This allows
for extra bit outside the lips as suggested.
Mouthpiece metals: Myler Bits are made with three main metals:
Stainless Steel, Sweet Iron and Cyprium.
For most English Myler Bits, Stainless Steel with Copper Inlay is used
based on the traditions in English tack and show turnout. Some English
bits are made with Sweet Iron as well. The Mylers prefer to use Sweet Iron
in all of their custom bits. Cyprium, a Stainless Steel and Copper alloy,
is gold in color and available in a select few ready-made bits. It is
strong, will not rust and encourages salivation. However, it is more
expensive to produce so it is limited to select bits.
Western Bits are commonly made of Sweet Iron with Copper Inlay. Sweet Iron
oxidizes or rusts. Slow-acting and harmless to horses, the oxidation has a
sweet taste that horses like and encourages salivation. The Copper Inlays
in the bit also encourage the horse to have a moist, soft mouth. Sweet
Iron has been a favorite for many years in Western bits, preferred over
Stainless Steel, which has a bitter taste and can dry the mouth. The
Mylers chose to use Sweet Iron with Copper Inlay in most Western Myler
Bits because of the various properties.
For best results and care of your bit, wipe down the mouthpiece after
riding. Not only does this keep the bit clean, but it slows the rust down
even more. The mouthpiece should offer you years and years of use, but
take care not to store the bit in damp, wet areas to prolong its usage.The
hinged area of the bit is Stainless Steel so it will not rust and/or seize
up with wear.
For additional advice on transitioning to a new bit or other bitting
issues, please feel free to E-mail or
phone us as needed. We’re more than happy to help.
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